It just seems to be the way that we’re made and it’s going to be a function of our history and how long we’ve been climbing for, whether it’s 5 years, 10 years, 20 years, so first of all don’t panic. I think as Steve said, this stuff does come back. He was a member of the United States Army Reserve and served in the Vietnam War. It is what it is.’. Our schedules have clashed a little bit and I’ve found myself getting frustrated that my normal schedule has been totally disrupted in that way. Neely Quinn: [laughs] Please give that out. Kris Hampton: You can find me @powercompanyclimbing on all the social medias and at powercompanyclimbing.com on the interwebs. Figure out about how strong your fingers are. Just to remind you, we do have that ebook for you if you want help with your training at home beyond what they just told you. I’m just driving her crazy trying to work 15 hours a day. I’ll tell people where they can find you. Play with your kids. Neely Quinn: Okay. Urban Landscape/Post Industrial Landscape Cartoon Illustrations Lastly, the other thing on top of that that I would do is say, “What tools do you have? Use that time to be tactical and to perform and to feel like a climber or someone who is performing again. He succeeded his father Stephen Bechtel Sr. as president of Bechtel Corporation in 1960 and chairman in 1969, handing these positions over to his son Riley in 1989 and 1996 respectively. ‘Oh yeah, that’s when I really hurt my finger.’ You want to hurt your finger sending your hardest route ever, not sitting in your kitchen. Steve Bechtel (March 19, 1970) is a rock climber with first ascents all over the world. I want to just swap that out.” I was like, ‘Okay, well what are you thinking?’, They said, “I want to just do the exercise and mimic the amounts of load I’m putting my forearms under and I want to do it super high intensity and just do it on the fingerboard. It will come back as soon as you get back into it. He recently finished his first book, The Hard Truth: Simple Ways to Become A Better Climber. I didn’t enjoy it but I did go, ‘You know what? I really love that about our community. One of the things that I’ve been doing for the last couple weeks is getting up an hour earlier than I normally do and trying to hammer a lot of that work during that period. It just works the muscles in a different manner. What I want to do is I want to replace my system board training with a deadhanging session. If I’m going to try and train at 2:30 in the morning that’s going to suck. I’m with Power Company Climbing. You guys, Tom and Steve, have young kids. Steve mentioned that just general fitness is going to be really helpful and if that’s all you’ve got available right now then we should be doing some of that. I’ve been explaining to people that if you still want to do some work which you can’t do heavily weighted and you still want to have a strength stimulus, one trick up your sleeve that I think a lot of people forget about is massively increasing the duration of each rep so slowing the movement down. Again, I have a lot of respect for all of those guys and I really appreciate them being on the show together. I tend to work quite a long week. Really, we’re fighting to make sure the kids have the time they need and that we’re nurturing them in that same way. I love it. If you’re having a hard time with a move, if you’ve spent time in this place where you’re really intentional and really aware, then you’re going to be able to pick apart the tiny parts of that movement faster and be able to put them back together in the right way faster as well. Just take it easy, sit back, and at least get a couple of weeks under your belt, first of all, in this new regime of what you’re doing. He went on to co-create Lattice Training with Ollie Torr (who also has been on the show), where he and a team of coaches use data driven tools to help climbers around the world get stronger. Go maybe one minute of max hang work in total, in terms of those intervals and time under tension, but break the other part down and do some repeaters, so some lower intensity work. Like Tom mentioned a little bit earlier, we don’t want to start from a place of lack, like all of the things we don’t have. I see my next door neighbor taking calls in his car in his driveway. [laughs] No, that’s actually interesting because that’s part of getting up early. I’ve just made sure that I do what I think a lot of people should do and just take whatever tools and things you want to do in the home and make them super accessible. As much as Kris said earlier about the dumb videos we see of people climbing around their houses and doing all those sorts of things, I actually think that basically playing around in your house and doing silly challenges and things that involve climbing muscles – like, I love where you see people climbing around their partner and climbing under tables. We should start with the things that we do. When we start broadening the loading spectrum there it opens up a lot of worlds to us. Tom Randall: You can find me on Google and @latticetraining on Instagram, or something. Kris is the owner and head coach at Power Company Climbing, which is a climbing training company that offers online coaching and coaching clinics around the world. One of the great things you could do now and it’s very, very easy, is to dial in your eating. Oh my god, you’re the worst. Neely Quinn: Cool. I think the only thing I’d probably add into it is if you look at your endurance or aerobic fitness in a localized sense you can, in a broad sense, break out three parts. You can do a lot of intense and moderately intense work, which I think is more balanced and will work better for you in the long run. I kind of want to go into this ‘training too much’ thing because I think you guys are right. Tom found fame as one of the WideBoyz with Pete Whittaker (recently on the show) when they came to the United States and took down the hardest wide cracks in the world. Why did I give myself such a hard question. If you’ve got the skill set there originally developed you will feel rusty when you come back and sure, some people seem to settle back into things really, really quickly and others take longer. I just think it’s awesome. My name is Tom Randall and I’m one of the cofounders of Lattice Training which is a coaching and profiling company in the UK. Our schedules have clashed a little bit and I’ve found myself getting frustrated that my normal schedule has been totally disrupted in that way. Then on the hangboards I think the lower intensity stuff is the ticket and we’re right in the same parameters that Tom suggested, unloading things or going for very short sessions. Your body really loved that before so copy it because it works. Stick to your rules. One is Steve Bechtel, one is Kris Hampton, and one is Tom Randall. I think that was a pretty thorough answer to that question. I know this is very different for everybody but in general, do you have any recommendations on that just to keep people from totally messing themselves up? In my situation I work from home and I’m usually here by myself all day and now I have my wife, who is a social worker at the schools here in Lander, at home and doing Zoom meetings with her colleagues as well as with students. Or are you putting in max hangs? We have a location just outside of Sheffield where everyone is on a daily basis and now that place is quiet. Ultimately, your body won’t be very happy if you flip things too quickly and suddenly and secondly, it’s really hard motivation to do that. We’ve tried to provide you guys with a lot of resources on the site at TrainingBeta. Kris Hampton: The only thing I would add is a lot of us are stuck in a new situation with our spouses or housemates or whatever it might be. Lastly, one other thing that I say is always too much is: just at it hard all of the time and never taking a break. I think it’s really good for people to kind of be given permission to not need to achieve huge things right now. Kris Hampton: I am Kris Hampton. I really appreciate you listening all the way to the end. Tom Randall, can you tell us about yourself? If you find yourself with all this free time and you’re filling all that free time with extra training, maybe consider finding a hobby that you’re going to enjoy. I’m with Power Company Climbing. Once you’ve learned the basic way to move your feet and do that sort of thing, like move on rock or move on an artificial wall, that ability won’t degrade as quickly as you think. What are you having them do? That’s just going to build awareness that you can then apply later on onto the wall while you’re climbing. Did your fingers get stronger? You guys know the drill. Neely Quinn: I’m going to ask about how that’s affecting your training and how other people in the same situation can go about continuing to train through that. Tom, what do you think about that? RESULT: MATCH: SCORE: PRS RESULTS #146: July 18, 2020: W.A.R. Never mind. Most people don’t have to work very much for as much money as they make, or as they did in the past. You can’t just win the battle in two weeks of suddenly changing what you’re doing at home. or We have a location just outside of Sheffield where everyone is on a daily basis and now that place is quiet. We’re not really supposed to be leaving our houses to go anywhere. It’s something I’ve used to motivate myself and I see a lot of my clients and my friends and partners doing the same. I’m actually going to stay on you because I don’t want you to feel like you’re last every time. Lots of injuries there, lots of injuries. If you really look at it and analyze it, what you’re doing on a system board – if you’re trying to replace that, for example – is you’re not operating those 6-8 minutes in that 90-100% range. You can find me @powercompanyclimbing on all the social medias and at. Cool. It went from this amazing family where I felt so connected to everyone that I worked with to this really strange distant thing, which we’re used to with clients but interpersonally with the team it’s really weird. How much can I possibly do and not quite get injured?’ I think if the athlete can get into the mindset of, ‘What’s the least I can do and still see a positive adaptation from this training?’ they’re going to be a lot less likely to get injured and a lot more likely to be able to continue the cycle for a longer period. Lyndon B. Johnson appointed Bechtel to the President’s Committee on Urban Housing. Or are you putting in max hangs? The thing I would say about staying motivated to train is you should stay motivated to have that continuity of training, meaning getting your heart rate up, breathing hard, making your fingers feel like you’re a climber still. What I want to do is I want to replace my system board training with a deadhanging session. You just mentioned repeaters. The one thing I would add is that if all you have is a hangboard and you’re trying to add all of this extra time and extra training, you’re going to burn out and lose motivation much faster, most likely, than your normal training would have. How much does it take to maintain the strength that we already have? Perfect Paperback $28.95 $ 28. You’re almost in one of those baby bouncers that you put your kids in in a doorway when they’re really young. Neely Quinn: Well congrats! Many of us are used to getting cardiovascular activity in terms of walking up to the crag with a backpack on. Yeah, no, don’t do that at all. I need somebody to just tell me what to do with training because I don’t like thinking about it. We know it’s not specific. All of these different implements you can use to add load but we don’t necessarily need to do that. Kris Hampton: I would say number one, I think bouldering on your kitchen cabinets is a great alternative but make sure you get video when those fail and post it on Instagram. All of those guys have created really great resources for you through this time. The gyms are closed. It’s really easy to just be like, ‘I’m exhausted emotionally from this pandemic and work and all the things. Neely Quinn: Lots of injuries there, lots of injuries. He also heads the Performance Climbing Coach seminars that teach climbers and coaches how to be and create better athletes. Let’s not just battle against not having a gym or not having access to this or not having your partner that you normally climb with. If you then went out two days a week for fun, just try and look at other activities which mimic that as much as possible. Kris Hampton: I’ll give you one of the specific things that I think has helped a lot of people. Yeah, if you go to the climbing gym for two hours normally then you’re like, ‘Oh, I climbed for two hours.’ Actually, you’re climbing for five minutes every 25 minutes or five minutes every 15 minutes and it’s probably at a fairly low load. The main thing is to make sure that we’re keeping that athlete uninjured and progressing slightly in their strength, in whatever particular facet of strength that we’re working in. Alright, I hope you enjoyed that interview with Steve Bechtel, Kris Hampton, and Tom Randall. Neely Quinn: That’s good practical advice. All of those guys have created really great resources for you through this time. Gerald Ford asked Bechtel to serve on the President’s Labor-Management Committee. Steve Bechtel: I think it’s really important to take a good look at what the loading cycle of your training is and how much time you spend at each of these intensities. So basically, for the first two weeks I actually did, for once, what I would tell my clients to do which is: if your life is in that much disarray and everything is too hard and you don’t actually have the time, just go easy on yourself. Tom’s got some great endurance workouts, all the way from basic aerobic capacity all the way up, that are very simple. What got you going a year ago? Tom Randall: There’s a few different things we’re trying to look at. This kind of intensity is low enough where if you hang on your fingerboard, you can typically take one hand off so you can hang one-arm quite easily. I think a lot of people are out there wondering, ‘How am I supposed to maintain my endurance through all of this?’ Kris, what do you think about that? I think it’s really good to try and break down and look at what you have previously done over the last three months or six months or last couple of years. I would say that if I was going to put my time into one thing in this environment, it would be doing some kind of work that was going to maintain that capillary density/accessibility of oxygenated blood to both the fast-twitch and slow-twitch muscle fibers, so doing some work at a high intensity interval training and some lower intensity work. I think we have Gumtree in the UK. Steve Bechtel: We were ordered to close the gym a couple of weeks ago and I thought that would free up a bunch of time for me but weirdly enough it’s made me more busy with different weird jobs and trying to keep up on the digital end of things. It just works the muscles in a different manner. What are you telling your clients, in general, to do that have minimal equipment and what are some of the workouts, specifically? It feels like you’re on a board. There are a lot of components to skill and becoming better at any skill that don’t involve necessarily doing that exact skill. Neely Quinn: I kind of want to go into this ‘training too much’ thing because I think you guys are right. The only thing I would add is a lot of us are stuck in a new situation with our spouses or housemates or whatever it might be. I was totally joking but that was a really great answer to my dumb joke. It is what it is.’. How much time did I spend doing maximal antagonistic training?’. It just took a couple of weeks of working to try to fit the kids’ calendars in there, too. Get the latest blog posts, podcast episodes, and other training resources in your inbox.. As of 2020, Stephen Bechtel Jr.’s net worth is $100,000 - $1M. So yeah, going for a walk around your town, any amount of physical activity, is going to be really useful, especially emotionally and health-wise. I think most of our getting out of shape and getting away and sucking at climbing is more mental and emotional than it is physical. An example of that would be a pull-up. 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